ICEFIELDS PARKWAY

 I am somewhat slow in describing our travels yesterday as there are no adequate adjectives to cover all that we saw.  

When we were planning this trip, we wondered why we were traveling by bus rather than by train from Jasper to Lake Louise.  Once the trip was underway, we understood totally.  There is no way we could have seen what we saw yesterday without driving down the Icefields Parkway.

The highway goes down what feels like a gigantic valley from Jasper to Lake Louise with imposing mountains rising up on either side the entire way. The mountains range from glaciers and snow to solid rock and often look unreal.

Early on the way we stopped at Athabaska Falls, a giant waterfall, especially in water power, that went down and down so far through the rocks that you could not see the entire waterfall from one viewpoint.  The sound was almost as good as the sight!

Back on the road our longest stop was at the Columbia Ice Field where we got to go up onto the glacier and get out for a visit. The monstrous glacier rovers that took us there were almost beyond human construction but they made a visit possible that we could not have done otherwise.

The glaciers enormous weight and grinding power sands the rocks they contact until they create what is called glacier bloom.  It is powdered rock as fine as flour which is somewhat suspended in the melt water.  This creates lakes that are sometimes brilliant blue depending on the weather clarity and sunshine.

At the end of the afternoon we arrived at Lake Louise.  The day has been simply beautiful with clarity and sunshine enabling a feast of vision.  We are here for two days…a bit of rest amidst indescribable beauty.

JASPER, ALBERTA

 We had a splendid day today in Jasper, located within Jasper National Park in Alberta.  There was wildfire here two years ago and the town is rebuilding after about 30% was destroyed.  The fires are necessary and the firefighting is to protect property, infrastructure and human life.  The forest is much healthier after the fire and so are the animals.  Part of nature. Here is a view of the burned forest after only two years recovery.

The town of Jasper is small but lovely.  We traveled around for the day.  One beautiful spot was Patricia Lake…Trish claimed this one as her own.  (There is also Patricia Avenue in town.) 

We spent the afternoon taking the Skylift to the top of Whistler Mountain.

From the top you could see very close to forever!  

It was a wonderful day, but, after several such full days we are very tired.  Early to bed and in to Lake Louise for a TWO DAY stop and rest!

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER, DAY III

 

Our car is at the very end of the train. At the back of the car is an outside vestibule where you can really take in the out of doors. It is a wonderful place for a stretch break or to take a few pictures.  The people who designed these cars really thought of everything.

Today we travel from Kamloops to Jasper where we will go from British Columbia into Alberta. It is to be a full ten hour trip in the train.  Before long we have left the valleys and lakes and are moving into the higher mountains. 

Going into the higher mountains we see periodic waterfalls. This one, right beside our tracks is called Pyramid Falls, named as you can see from its pyramid-like shape.

As we get higher, the rivers begin to turn to smaller streams and creeks.  This is when the beavers take over maintenance of the water system.  This is just an edge of a vast beaver system that is regulating water in a whole valley.

They feed us all day on the train. This is our downstairs dining room where we go for major meals between being constantly nourished and watered in our normal upstairs dome seating.

Before arriving in Jasper we travel for a good bit of time along by Mount Robson, At 12,972 feet it is the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Yes, there is a trail to the top. We rode past it for many miles.

We have two nights in Jasper and tomorrow will be exploring the area.  It is great to be able to sleep late after a few long days.

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER, DAY II

 This morning we got up in Whistler and reboarded our train.

Because of the wildfires, our route for today is somewhat altered.  We will be going on the normal route as far as the village of Lillooet.  The train cannot go from there on to Quesnel as planned due to these fires.  From Lillooet we board busses and travel to Sun Peaks Resort, about an hour above Kamloops.  From there we will continue to Jasper tomorrow.

This improvised campground is one of the staging areas for firefighters from many countries who have come to fight the wildfires.  Beside the field of tents was another one of campers.  On our way we also watched a helicopter dip a giant bucket of water from a lake beside our tracks and head out toward the nearest fire.We learned that there are firefighters from all over Canada here, plus 300 from Mexico,  more from Australia and New Zealand, but there are no firefighters from the United States…why?

Most of our day today we followed right beside a series on very long lakes.  You can see some haziness in the atmosphere (and reflection in the window) as we travel on the windward side of the fires.

The lakes seemed endless and were exquisitely beautiful. There are cabins along the shores, some of which can only be reached by boat.

Wonder what people do who live way up here?  Lumber is one of the biggest industries.  We passed numerous log yards along the lakes…floating the logs is the easiest way to move them…with yards of milled lumber resting beside them.

 By the end of the day we had passed all of the smoke.  When we head to Jasper tomorrow there will be clear skies all the way.  The temperatures here go to the eighties in the afternoon with no rain in sight.  The fires are still a long way from control.

IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

 This morning we boarded the Rocky Mountineer train in Vancouver to begin a twelve day circular trip through the Canadian Rockies. Our train is marvelous.  

Our car is called Gold Service.  It is two stories tall with a dining car area downstairs and this fully glassed top dome seating area upstairs.  It is almost like being out of doors with just glass in between. (Good for climate control and safety!)

The first part of our morning was a long breakfast downstairs as we traveled alongside bays where the Pacific Ocean touches Canada.

We then turned inland where crashing rivers ran beside us as we crossed over several times.  Caretaking on the train is really splendid.  We leave our luggage in our room in the morning and, lo, it is in our next room that night before we arrive there.  The Rocky Mountaineer people surely do everything just right.

In the afternoon we came to our stop for the night in the town of Whistler. Whistler was the site of Alpine events in the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics.  The village is a pedestrian only village and is a wonderful place to wander, eat, and drink.  Lots of people to watch!

Yes…and one of those people got her favorite soft serve dip top ice cream!

The wildfires are north of here. We do have some high level overcast from the smoke, but we smell nothing and if we did not know of the fires we would not be aware.

Tomorrow, for safety, the Rocky Mountaineer will take us on a slightly alternate route.  It will be a route taken on one of their other trips and we may get some extra treats for this small change.  These people are so caring and really do everything to please us.

BUCHART GARDENS

 Robert Buchart and his wife, Jennie, began manufacturing cement in Western Canada in 1888. In 1904 their operation was moved to a huge limestone deposit on Victoria Island.  By 1909 the limestone was exhausted. After seeing garden work done by Japanese designer, Isaburo Kishida, Jennie Buchart commissioned him to create a sunken garden in the old quarry site. Finished in 1921, the Bucharts begin to welcome people to their garden.  Over 100 years later the garden has grown considerably, but it is still in the family.  We could have spent the day, but only had an afternoon to relax here until our eyes were full.

The Victoria climate loves flowers, warm and sunny by the afternoon and cool at night, the colors are very brilliant.  This hanging garden of fuscias was nearly overwhelming.

There were also fountains galore.  They ranged from giant snails to dragons, or simply dancing waters.

One of my favorite sections was the Japanese garden.  Totally floored with beautiful green moss, the space combined gentle water with shade and coolness.

The Buchart’s original home is now a restaurant and gift shop.  If this were my garden, I would have to still live here!

This was a day much worth living!

VICTORIA ISLAND

 We arrived in Vancouver, British Columbia, on August 12 and yesterday took a day long trip to Victoria Island. Though we live with ferries, we had been on nothing like this one. It carried over three hundred vehicles and more than a thousand passengers.  There were even three restaurants on board so you could eat your way through the ninety minute trip.

After the ferry ride we traveled to the city of Victoria and spent most of our time at the inner harbor area. You can’t miss the Fairmont Empress Hotel and its lovely grounds. 

 Built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad in 1908 to promote luxury tourism along its railroad and steamship lines, the hotel has hosted British Royalty from George VI to Elizabeth II and a host of celebrities.  The grounds are spectacular. (They have also served high tea for 118 years.)

The Parliamemt of British Columbia meets in Victoria and the Parliament building is huge and spectacular. 

As you can see from this map, Victoria is actually farther south that parts of Washington State and the climate year round is perfect for flowers. After the city of Victoria, we spent the afternoon in the Butchart Gardens…but that deserves another post all its own! (Tomorrow)